MARIANNE STRAUB – A DESIGNER’S DESIGNER
Friday 3rd April 1730 for 1800 in the Edinburgh Room, Lygon Arms, Broadway
Arriving in Bradford in 1932 to study power weaving, Swiss-born
Marianne Straub (1909-1994) was to become one of Britain’s most influential
designer/weavers. This talk is a chance to glimpse the creative output of a
handweaver committed to well-made mass-produced textiles, one who remained
active until her return to Switzerland in 1992.
Her biographer, Mary Schoeser, introduces the range of her work, including the
cloths she designed for Gordon Russell Ltd. Some, such as the Welsh tweeds
first produced in the mid-1930s, remained favourites among the clients of the
firm for over two decades, and Dick Russell is also known to have used them in
his own home.
Joining Warner &
Sons in 1950, she soon took up residence in Great Bardfield, Essex (where her
immediate neighbours were Edward and Charlotte Bawden) and began teaching,
latterly at the Royal College of Art. Among her freelance designs were those
she produced for London Underground, including one remaining in use on the
Piccadilly Line until recently. An example of this, together with a small
selection of other Straub cloths, will be available to examine on the
evening.
Our speaker MARY SCHOESER has been a predominantly freelance historian since
1991. Mary Schoeser MA FRSA has written diverse publications (26
books, over 50 essays in books and over 120 shorter pieces), which include
Textiles: A concise history (T&H: 2003), Silk (Yale University Press,
2007), and Textiles: The art of mankind (Thames & Hudson, 2012 and 2013).
For nine years in the 1980s the Archivist for Warner & Sons, there she was
introduced to Marianne Straub, co-creating a book and exhibition on her life’s
work in 1984. From 1991 a consultant archivist to numerous firms, her knowledge
of British manufacturers extends to a sound understanding of textile and
wallpaper production itself. This has facilitated restoration work with English
Heritage, the National Trust and other historic property owners and also
informed 36 curatorial projects, most recently a Designers Guild exhibition for
the Fashion & Textile Museum in London. Extensive academic experience
included a part-time research position at Central Saint Martins (2000-2011) and
receipt in 2016 of an Honorary Senior Research Fellowship from the V&A
Museum. President of the Textile Society, she is also Patron of the School of
Textiles, Coggeshall (www.schooloftextiles.co.uk).
COST: VOLUNTEERS FREE, FRIENDS £5, OTHERS £10.
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